Stair climbing

Climb for Hope, Boston, April 28, 2013
Signing up for a challenge is the hardest step, doing it is just a few extra steps
 
We had an eventful, but fun race, wearing MITOC shirts, and had MITOC friends helping us through.  Dan took second place with only 4 seconds behind the winner in the weight-of-the-world category, climbing 46 floors with a 25lb weight backpack!  I took an easier 2x route - running 92 floors with only thoughts weighing me down.

Race and competition
The organizers were very supportive of our team effort.  Before the start they wanted to recognize our last minute entry in memory of Sean, but we deferred as we were still waiting on Chris who couldn't join us today.

The other racers were also very down to earth and supportive.  I was taking the elevator down with a couple of breathless racers also going for the repetitive 2x.  I asked the guy next to me how he raced this, as I started with plans to save some for the second climb, but then went all out from the half-point up.  He admitted to saving some for the second time but pushing it too - "you still want to do your best 1x too".  He had climbed the 46 floors in 5:17, and won both the male 1x and 2x categories with a huge lead.  After the second round, we cheered each other between coughs, and he's: "Oh yeah, you'll cough for a couple of days, don't worry :)".  I had even stopped both times at the 2/3 water station for a preventative  sip for my parched throat, as you can't carry water on the course, but we were still rookies.

Dan and I were late to the after-party so we shared a table and a great conversation with two very nice ladies while waiting for the final results.  One of them was sharing more rookie advice - she was a 4 time Boston Marathoner and had done a few tower races before: "Didn't you see the cough drops at the bottom and this year at the top too?"  She had signed up to do 2x as well, but had ignored the directions to the elevator and had taken another stairwell for natural recovery - just like we do on our 21 floor Green Building Wednesdays!  She had walked down to the first floor only to see an emergency door that would activate an alarm, and to get out she had to run up to the 46th floor :) although untimed.  She at least won the female 1x category.  Official times can't tell the whole story!

Hardest part

All rational thinking was suspended at the half point on the second climb again:
I started planning to run/walk it a third time with Chris's tag "seems like I can finish 2x, so why not 3x?".  I found Dan to share the plan and he was feeling up for a second run together, him carrying his 25lb of coconut water, and probably could put me on the backpack too if necessary :)  We got an OK with the organizers to be the virtual Chris and Sean entrants, and we set up the timing tag.  Too bad they turned us back from the start line - the finish station needed to close soon to send the final results to the timing company.  We were somewhat disappointed as we knew we were ready to do it, but we agreed that committing to the challenge is the hardest, doing it is just a few extra steps.
Thanks to Chris for signing up with us as well.
Thanks to Ludwig for taking an early Sunday morning call and helping our frantic coordination!
Kudos to Dan again for the commitment!!!

On Doing The Right Thing

Dwelling on the past robs the present;

ignoring the past robs the future!

For most people: if you can't help, or don't want to risk your life for strangers, just call 911.

I've called 911 before, and I've fallen off a cliff in the ocean.  On Memorial Day's rescue mission I just did what had to be done.  Calling 911 was not registering as a solution at that moment.  They don't just send you a helicopter. It's also too easy to get spooked and fall off of a precipitous rock.  We had to ensure Michael was at least at a stable spot.   It was getting windier, and it was great we could have him secured on a rope.  Then maybe he could wait long enough, even tired and gripped by fear.  And sure my current disability insurance expressly excludes rock climbing; so be it!  Every act was through the prism of my personal experience, training, and ethical model.  There was no time for any of the following to consciously cross my mind. 

Tunitas Creek on my fantastic 1000km tour to Mexico, Christmas 2011

All three stories below are illustrated by this picture.
1) The cliff where I fell in the ocean in a rock fall in 2010
(the tall vertical face right above my rear tire, top rising to the horizon)
2) The bike trailer and lights that attracted the robbery I called 911 for
3) The beautiful bike frame that snapped in two that I just walked off

Legal issues

For the benefit of my non-American readers who don't understand the US legal system.

Anything you do to help puts you at risk of being sued.  Especially if someone doesn't die, but gets disabled.  And being disabled in the US is pretty expensive, so is disability insurance.

Here in Massachusetts the law requires you at least to call 911 and not walk away.  Even if the victim dies afterwards, you're legally not at fault.   In California one has no legal obligation to help, not even to call 911...  Whether you can sleep at night for not doing more is up to you.  In the current legal framework it's best if you get victims out unscratched, or leave them with no emotional damage - e.g. dead.

You always take responsibility - ethical, legal, and financial, both for your actions and inaction, whether someone dies or lives. Ethically you'd want to help if you can do better than the victim, but legally you can only help if you are officially trained.  I have only basic training in wilderness first aid.  Good Samaritan Laws allow me to legally provide help only to someone in medical emergency.  If conscious, he'd have to consent to my help after I state my level of training, i.e. I am not a doctor.  

Although last week Michael did ask for help, it could also be interpreted to call help, not to provide help.

Calling 911

Yes, I should have asked someone to call 911 to back us up.  Yet I don't know how more effective emergency response would have been; I couldn't call myself; and it takes time to persuade for help.

In our case, coaching Michael how to stay safely on the rock, and guiding him to a better spot, might have been enough till official help arrived.  We should have had them at least on standby.  If they were necessary they'd be too late.  It was a pretty windy day: my kiteboarding friends had a blast that afternoon.  I don't even know if helicopter rescuers would have been safe with their ropes flying all over.  Land or sea rescue may have been an option, and I didn't know whether his cove was connected.  Our beach is only reachable by a foot trail.

Yet at first I didn't see it as an emergency.  With the impression that he somehow climbed from our beach, it couldn't have been that hard to get back.  I believed I can reach his spot, so he should have been able to get out as well.  And I am not much of a climber, he ought to be better than me if he decided to climb that high, right…

Second, I'd needed to send someone else to explain where and what was happening.
Until I saw Eric on his phone I assumed there wasn't coverage here.   My cellphone didn't have coverage at the previous beach, so it was in my car half a mile hike away.  Its battery went dead as usual, so I didn't even know which beach I am at :)

And, third, we may have failed to show imminent danger to put our tax dollars to work to send a response team.

911 call Christmas Eve 

The only time I've called 911 was on my way back from a 1000km bike tour to Mexico.  On that call I was calmly explaining I was afraid I was getting bike/carjacked by a teenage gang, possibly with guns.   It took me longer to convince the girl on the other side to send the cops for cover, than took the two cruisers to report.  She was right - there was no emergency - I wasn't shot or robbed … yet.  

I had ridden late at night and just reunited with my car after a week of biking.  My helmet, bike and trailer were all flashing like a Christmas tree, and we had grabbed much attention that late Christmas Eve.  A car had followed me and dropped a kid in a hoodie and passed behind me.  The kid wasn't engaging in small talk and eye contact.  After he tried to open my car door, I asked in a commanding voice (the one for hollering at dogs) what is he trying to do.  He retorted "You don't understand, do you?" with hands sticking in his pockets.  

That had me put 911 on speakerphone in seconds on my backup cellphone.  My primary iPhone had been stolen that morning, so I had the spare within reach.  That theft and the the ride to Tijuana had helped jolt me back to reality after a blissful week biking thru California countryside.  Maybe I was too edgy?  The brawny officer who reported to the scene said that in that part of Ventura, he would have called the cops too...  

I really should avoid travel on holidays - I always get in trouble ;)

Rock Fall

Back to this Memorial Day - Michael wasn't showing that raw fear I saw later.  If I went over to 'give him a hand' things could have turned pretty disastrous.   Once fear and panic set in he'd clutch on me sending us both down.  I know how easily the rocks of California beaches crumble by slightest movements. 

It's happened to me too - once I got so jittery by a rock fall that I fell in the ocean.  

It was on one of many occasions of me doing stupid stuff.  A couple of years ago at Tunitas Creek Beach, my intense curiosity led me to "just see the next cove around the cliff".  At least I had someone keeping an eye on me.  I saw rock piles on the ground, so I tiptoed cautiously(?!) watching for rock fall.  I heard rocks crumbling high up that started falling on my earlier path.  I instinctively looked up and leaned into the rock.  That took my weight off my feet so I slid off the ledge.  

Good I regained my usual calm in the cold 55F (12C) water.  I was back with a few strong strokes before the current took me too far out.  And I pulled myself up before the next wave splattered my stupid brains on the rocks.  I only had to pay a fine for my water damaged Bulgarian driver license.  Though I told my parents the partial truth about my wallet getting wet at a beach ;)

Obviously I get dumb bumming at a beach.  Good I usually just cross it to get in the water - regularly swimming a mile out, kiteboarding on windy days, surfing on rainy ones, or freediving even when there is hail.  Which takes us to the final consideration.

Disability Insurance

So, what about my own safety, trying to rescue someone on unstable cliffs?
I have a will, so I only worry about getting disabled.   Hopefully I am just wasting my money on disability insurance.   I'd rather never get any return on this investment.  Yet, my current insurance has a lot of exceptions, e.g. rock climbing accidents are not covered.   I almost got through the phone pre-screen when I applied for the insurance (while telling the truth the whole time).

"Do you do any scuba diving?"  No.  (Scuba is too dangerous, I used to be certified.  The only diving I do now is freediving.  It's much safer anyways - no gear fear, just sound body and mind needed.   I can hold my breath for 6 minutes.  But requires a buddy, just in case you blackout...  )

"Do you do any mountaineering?"  No.  Well, I've hiked three 4000+ m peaks but nothing technical.    I simply ran barefoot on the summit of Mt Whitney (4421m) and solo hiked 69km to Mauna Loa (4169m).
"Climbing mountains?  Rock climbing you said, with ropes and stuff?"  Oh, no - I really don't trust my life on gear.  I always need multiple backups.  I am an engineer.

(If my insurance agent is reading this,  I was technically just doing scrambling on Monday…  That's not rock climbing, you see…  I wasn't even secured by a rope. )

"Do you do any motorcycling racing?"  No.  Just cycling.  Everyone rides a bike, right?  (Sure, I do some cycling events, but I am not racing - I am happy to finish - as an average Ironman.  You can't go fast after riding all day.  Really, I never go more than 45mph on the downhills.  If I pass cars on long steep downhills it's because it is safer than overheating my brakes...   And I've only had two bikes fall apart in my hands - I just walked off unscratched in a crash.  While motorcycles fall on top and crush you, bicycles are definitely safer. )

"Do you do any martial arts?"  Uh.  Yes.  It's hard to explain they got me for my safest and sanest recreation.  We mostly work on technique, while contact with a partner is always controlled and stylized.  The attacker announces his attack for a block to be ready.  He must always be able to stop before impact.  We rarely get anyone injured. 

"Is there fighting?"  No - it's a very boring style of karate.  (The few staged fights tried against cajoled masters comprised of just one block instantly accompanied by a deadly punch slowed down to a mere knockout.  Who'd want to watch such quick fights?)

Anyways, I failed the last question, so I had to fill a detailed exclusion form.  I admitted to all above avocations.  Even though they weren't asking :)  

It was best to ensure my application will hold up if I ever have to file a claim.   The more pedestrian injuries and illnesses are statistically much more probable.  Sport accidents are just a minor source of disabilities, even if we double the expected risks, due to my impaired self-preservation and magnetism for trouble.   

I hope my readers would still feel safe going on trips with me ;)

Now the insurance exclusion doesn't mean I'd not do what needs to be done, or stop doing what I love.  It just means I have to commit to be fully responsible for my own safety.  

Overall I think up to getting Michael tied on the rope he couldn't have had better luck.  I have to ponder more about the rest of that day.  Could we or others have extricated him unscratched?

Cliff Rescue Mission

A classic tale of selfless men putting their lives in danger to save ones who didn't value theirs.


Stinson Beach, California
Memorial Day, May 28, 2012

I was enjoying my last Sunday afternoon as a California resident at a beach.  I had just scrambled up a rock to look down the ocean.   Then I heard someone from further North.

"Hey, are there people down there?"  I was confused where was this 'down'.  Note this was my first mistake as I didn't understand the implications of his critical question.
Of course, there were lots of people.  

"(Do you) need help?" I heard.  I probably looked very confused.  

The wind was making it hard to hear so I climbed closer to the guy. 

"No, I'm fine thanks.  What were you asking first?"

"I NEED HELP!"

This was turning into more of an adventure I had planned for the day.

The following is a verbose capture of yesterdays memories, as I won't have time to shorten the story for a while.  I'd want to come back to analyze all things done well, and where one could have reduced risk due to miscommunications, misinterpretations, and poor judgment.  I hope the report will have valuable lessons to some as is.

I had just been to physical therapy for three overuse injuries on three limbs from three activities.

I was tempted to go for a swim in the bay on my way home.  Yet I was told not to do anything active today to recover from the session.  A sunny day was not to be wasted - I had plenty of reading with me.   So instead I drove by the ocean and stopped by this beach south of Stinson Beach.   

I had hiked to the southern side and up on a huge boulder.  On its steep face there were some climbers top-roping.  They may get too noisy relaying commands.  In the middle of the beach, there were more climbers just bouldering with crash pads.  So I hiked thru some cracks to the north side - more protected from the wind, where I could still hear the pounding surf and do some reading.  

"Maybe on top of that rock up there I will have a better view" I thought before settling down.  

And that's how I got myself to be the first responder in a rescue mission.

The traverse across to the guy had 5-10 meters of sketchy loose rocks.  

"OK.  You need help :) How did you get there?"  He pointed down to the beach below him.  Whatever way he had scrambled there, he was now stuck.  I had no idea how to get to that beach to follow his way up to give him a hand.  

The rock above him was in upward V shape I could climb on my side.  

"Let me check out that route.  Hold on."

I scrambled up (in my everyday thin-sole shoes).

The rock on his side also seemed more solid than that traverse, but it was very steep.  

Chances were that the whole face would slide off - it's an eroded cliff rock.  

I couldn't really help him much on his way up without a rope.  I didn't know if he'd have guts and energy to commit to going another 5-7 meters up.  I asked what shoes he had - just light hikers.  Hmm..  Alternatively, I could go down to him - I'd need to go barefoot to get better holds.  He'd have to move to the side so I don't drop rocks on him (or fall on top).  Though if I went down it wasn't clear if there will be much of the crumbly rock left to go up.  So we'd have to reach the stable northern side to his left, but I didn't know how we'd go down from there either...

I figured there must be a way from the beach I came from.  Maybe I could go around the rocks or wade thru the water.  Maybe  tides had cut some obvious route.  So I scrambled back down to the beach.  Went up to the nearest beach-goer - 

who had everything to be at the beach for a while (other than a swimsuit).  I told him I am going to go try help a guy climb down, and I asked him to call for help if we don't come back in half an hour.  He repeated back somewhat puzzled.  

I didn't see how to get around though.  I went back up the rock and again failed to find a way down his side.   I scrambled back to the guy thinking I'd ask how he got to where he started.

Yet I saw his legs shaking, and I realized it wouldn't be safe to approach from below him.  If he weakened he'd fall or drop some rocks on top of me.  I coached him to not use muscles and instead rely more on his skeleton to support him.  "Don't crouch, don't hold so tightly, relax"

And I didn't want him to lean into the rock and take weight off his feet, as he'd slip out.

"OK, now hold on 10 minutes - I will bring rope".  

It really had to be him either go up or traverse across on his own.  Or we'd haul him out.

I darted south hoping the climbers are still at the beach.

Good, there was nobody on the rope and they were all down.

I explain that there is a kid, OK, a guy your age, stuck on the rocks on the other side.

"How high is he?"

Now my second mistake here.  I point to a nearby rock for reference.  Probably about right as height, 

but I had no idea how to explain that he's on a very different rock than the solid stuff 

these guys are climbing and bouldering on.  It's also sloping, not straight down.  

"We need rope"

Yet I let them convince me that there is no point in bringing rope, for a guy with no harness it will be useless.  We'd just bring two crash pads.  With the first mistake uncorrected, I didn't yet know we can't get down to the other side at all!

Cody had just finished two weeks ago an

outdoor educator semester at NOLS.  (Tip: look for the guy with the longest beard :) when you need a rescuer)  He's got skills fresh in his mind.  So I figured it's better to just run quickly back and have him assess.  

I even put the disclaimer that they may be disappointed if our guy has already figured out a way to come back.

I dashed ahead back across the beach.  I asked a guy who was bouldering to direct the three climbers behind me with the crash pads while I ran ahead to check on our guy.    

He was still OK, but just nodding in response to questions.  Cody arrived and asked me if our guy speaks English.  

"Yes, better than mine".   Now I finally asked Michael for his name.  

I asked Cody to coach him how to stand safely and not burn out his muscles.  

The other climbers were shaking their heads - we can't do anything.

Nobody knew how to go down to the beach.  We could toss the crash pads down but we don't know how to go there.  

Cody sent me and Kunal back for rope.  "We don't want more victims".  

I ran ahead to see the girls on the rope, with one climbing near the top.  

Good they say there was another rope somewhere in a blue backpack.  

Third mistake, I had assumed their ropes and gear was all on the wall!

I told Denise to keep belaying her climber.  I ransacked the rucksacks for rope.  Too many blue bags!  I finally found the rope bag.  Running up I saw a helmet lying around and I picked it up just in case.  

I ran across the whole beach once more and straight up the scramble.   Here went my 'no strenuous activity for 24 hours' break…  We could have had the rope first.  But "whoever is weak in the head has strong legs".   At least I picked up a helmet as well.  We would have forgotten that if we got the rope the first time around.

We had no good anchors for the rope, even the rock I had climbed earlier was not reliable to save a fall.  

I think we at least can use it to lower the helmet to him.

These are experienced climbers and know this rock is sketchy to say the least.  

"Are you sure you can get down from there?"

I am stupid enough having done it already : "Yes, I already checked it out. "

Cody and Garrett asked Michael "What knots do you know how to tie?  None?  That's OK". 

I asked if we have a piece of rope we can have him trace a good knot, but we had nothing.

"Just tie a knot like the one we've tied on the helmet!"

I was perched on a rock above Kunal who passed me the helmet with the rope on it.   I tried to put it on my head to have hands free.  (You don't normally attach the rope on your head :))  And I bumped off my glasses with the straps!  Good they only fell 5 meters down on our side.  

"Can you go up without them?"  "I can see up, but maybe not going down.  They are prescription not just sunglasses.  "

Good Eric had just climbed towards us.  Later he said after he directed the team after me he got curious what kind of rock are these guys going to climb.  "It's got to be real good if we all running for it" joked Cody.  So Eric picked up my glasses and I was set to go.

I had some idea what was stable from my earlier climb, and I went up rather quickly.  I tried not to send much rubble down on Kunal.  I was up again on the top ledge trying to stay low and stable.  I tried lowering the helmet straight down but the wind was pushing it sideways.  Worse too many loose rocks were raining on Michael.  So I lowered the rope in a gully to the side.  I asked Michael to not reach.  "Just guide me towards you when I am close".   Then I rolled the helmet across the wall.

Now he took off his baseball hat and attempted to put the helmet on without falling, while holding the end of the rope,  and his hat!  Garrett told him to just drop the hat, but he put it in his mouth and held onto everything and the rock.  His hat seemed more precious than his life.

Anyways, I think it's good he was thinking about something else than that he's gonna fall down!

Old school belaying

Cody in the mean time had instructed Michael how to use the rope in classic style.
He'd first wrap the rope three times around his body, 
and then any knot he knows how to tie.  "Tie two knots!" I remind!  Rope around the belly not the hips.

There is no solid anchor up there, so I lower our side of the rope trying not to bring down any rocks.  There was a more stable looking rock we used as an anchor.
Cody would just body belay, with rope behind his back, counting on the friction against his body, and hoping he'd wouldn't fly over.

So I climbed down, high-fived Cody, and promptly careened and fell a couple of feet down some rubble while trying to avoid bringing the rocks on top of Kunal… 

I climbed back to the front and asked Michael to take that hat out of his mouth, and stick it inside his t-shirt.  

I wanted him to be able to talk to us!  Now I could check if he needed water or food.  He said he's good.

We're in good spirits, and Cody was sure now that the psychological barrier was over that Michael can make it.

Behind the rocks he said that our rope really is not going to help much.  He'd have to do it without falling. Our rock anchor was almost horizontal.  So Michael would have a good 5m slide if he falls.  We could also all go down with him or if he topples down our anchor.   First plan was that Kunal would hold the rope and grab on Cody, and I'd grab on Kunal. 

Cody shooed off his wife to get down to the beach, as the whole rock we are on might fall.  

I thought he was trying to scare her to keep her safe, but maybe he gave a very realistic view.

Denise didn't even get to see what happened next.

Cody braced against the rock from where he has no clear sight on Michael.   Kunal was relaying rope commands to Cody.  From this point Garrett was in charge - he had to guide Michael through each step, handhold and foothold he needs to make.

And to remind him to breathe, and relax.  Michael's face kept going from concentration to fear - pale face, lip corners down.  But he was calm.  He was carefully clearing off the loose dirt and rock off the first hold.  Kunal suggested he should tap on the rock to check if it's good.  I reported to Cody that Michael made his first step, and he's got this really big solid rock he can hold with double hand overhead.  We're in good shape.

Cody asked me to get on top of him, as we'd need a heavier anchor.  Sometimes being a dead-weight is an important job too :)

Cody and I got in a pretty cozy position - I am wrapped tight around him.  We are the body anchor.  

It's just psychological we say - so he is more comfortable he won't be flying off.

I asked Cody to tell me if I squeeze too tight - I am pretty strong and don't want to break his ribs ;)

He said that it's better to be his ribs than the other guys head.

Good the rope is dynamic so we'd have a moment to react and tighten if there is a fall.

We had time to catch up on where everyone is from and chat to keep good spirits and camaraderie.  

Garrett was very calm and patient talking Michael thru each step.  So I tell him he's doing a great job.  

Cody said "Garrett's going to be the hero".  

"Yeah, better be him, than us" I said.  "Oh, we two are just two guys in the back crouching on the rocks :)" we chuckle.

I felt good that Eric was on his cellphone from a safe distance.  At least someone could call 911.  (And he got that picture of us above.)

Maybe we should have called someone at that point.  But really I don't think the rangers or firefighters would have been better trained for this than Cody. They can send the helicopters to haul out bodies, but they'd just blow us all off the rock.  It seemed we were handling this alright.  It's just those five sketchy yards Michael needed to make through…

The rope tightens but Cody and I don't get yanked.
"He fell!  He is alright!"

We didn't see the fall.  The 'solid' rock had crumbled when he put his weight on it to transfer to the next hold.

Garrett was now trying to throw a webbing towards Michael, but the wind was blowing it back.

I told him to wrap it around a rock and toss.  Cody shouted, "No.  Don't do it, he'd pull you down with him".   Indeed Garrett was exposed with no good place to brace.   In a way, the fall with our sideways rope brought Michael down but closer to us.  Soon after (or it seemed) he emerged.  The fall likely pumped adrenaline blasting for his final efforts.  His arm and fingers were bloodied, and he said he's got some bruises on his leg but he is alright.   

The rope worked!  His knots held up!  The helmet got used well!  Our rock anchor didn't budge.  We - the body anchor - didn't fly off.  Friction took the fall's energy.  Everyone was fine!

We cheered up everyone on the good job, and just had everyone sit down, relax, breathe, and recover from the excitement.    We didn't have any medkit or water to clean Michael's wounds and he said there was no other bleeding.  I asked if his ribs were hurting from taking in the rope either.   (Another mistake, I really should have checked all of this directly as he was probably still in shock. And I didn't see how bad was the fall.)   His muscles were all wasted, his body shaking.  Michael toppled over a few times even walking on the beach where he finally got cleaned up.

Now we had time to congratulate everyone on the good execution and went over the miscommunications.  Apparently Michael had started from a different beach further north.  His friends never came to look for him - I don't know if he had told them he's going to try traversing rocks south.  That explained his very first question - he didn't know he was so close to our beach and help.  He apparently had been stuck for half an hour before I came.   

Kunal was surprised how when Michael fell, he asked the people down that he wants to see that video of him.  I again think it was a better distraction than him thinking or screaming "I am freaking gonna die!!!"

Garrett's estimate was that without the rope around him Michael would have slid, caught his foot on the ledge, toppled backwards, and flown head down 40-50ft (e.g. 4-5 floor height) with that big rock on top of him.  Broken bones and a concussion at least were sure.  I hope his mangled arms heal well but for a scar to remind him to value his and others' lives.

I didn't get any reading done yesterday - neither the writing I have to do, as instead I blogged my fresh memories.  Yet I'm glad I am alive to share we had a happy ending.

Neither I got much rest for my overtrained body - but I can always have another session before my 1000km bike randonneuring weekend.  

I, Insert-My-Name-Here,

My advice:  Start every adventure with the "randonneurs' oath".  Before every arduous endurance and skill test we raise our hands and pledge: "I, Insert-My-Name-Here[sic!], promise, not to do stupid stuff!". We'll always have a few Insert-My-Name-Here moments and that's OK.  It's a great reminder we are all human and often overestimate our skills and miss the obvious.

It may have been a sadly memorable Memorial day if so many things that could have gone wrong did; or if I had to try the alternate routes myself, if there was no time or nobody to count on...  

Pay attention to your surroundings.  Everything we see may end up being important.  What we don't see we don't think about!

Everyone who joined in this rescue mission contributed, while putting their lives in danger to save another.  Life is precious.  

Thanks again to Cody, Garrett, Kunal, and Eric! 

Alcatraz Triathlon 2011

On jumping off a perfectly good boat.

The thrill of jumping off the boat makes an Alcatraz swim worth keeping on your annual calendar.  The Alcatraz Triathlon was a memorable race to freedom: a choppy dip in the bay, a bike ride in classic San Francisco fog, a run under the Golden Gate Bridge and up 400 sand steps up the beach.  We'll draw lessons from my fading memories on what went well for a fun race with clothing and nutrition, and what can be improved: lack of vision, and not pushing hard enough.

More Pictures

Manage your expectations

For my second Alcatraz crossing I had signed up for this  Olympic distance triathlon (~1.2mi/2km Swim, 25 mi/40km Bike, 7 mi/11km Run) August 21, 2011 way before I noticed TriCalifornia beefed up the race description:

This is certainly not a race for the faint of heart.  Treacherous swim, fighting the strong currents ... The hills of San Francisco: sharp turns, fast descents and agonizing climbs. Throw in a beach run with a 400 step sand ladder and you have one of the most difficult triathlons in the world.

Come prepared both physically and mentally to challenge yourself as this will be a race you will never forget!

Pictures

Know your weaknesses

An Olympic distance is too short to overcome my lack of skill at swimming.  At Half-Ironman and longer the swim time becomes less and less important, e.g. 10% of my Ironman time, vs 30% at this event.  


I wish one day we'll have an Ironman San Francisco that includes a swim from Alcatraz and under the Golden Gate Bridge :) 

Know your goals and strengths

I knew I can blaze the sand ladder with good technique and after all those karate squats - 
so top 10% here was nice but understandable. Yet the goal was not to push to win any hill, not even to finish the race, but to have fun and keep getting better in a healthy lifestyle.

I was more surprised how well I ranked on the run - top 30%.  
Maybe it was self-selection - the good runners were scared of the crazy swim, 

so maybe only good swimmers who can't run jumped off the boat.

I was taking it easy on the earlier steps, or I simply executed a better race strategy by others and had lots of energy for the run.  Overall, I think at this level of exertion I can keep coming for more.  

The swim

After the thrill of the jump and initial cold shock, the swim really should be the calmest portion of the race. Unless you start worrying about something again.

Lack of Vision: Know your own destination, Choose your own milestones

Lack of visual goal 
- I didn't check what to orient to for the changed swim exit.  I should have checked for the view from the water.   With a boat start everyone starts with different angle according to their skill to counter the current.  I started doubting I am aiming to the right exit with people going in all possible directions.  Only when a POLICE jet ski dropped off a swimmer just in front of me I knew I am still on course.  That guy was probably swimming straight to Hawaii, so they just pulled him back parallel to shore.

- Don't follow others

I should have learned by now to not follow or swim parallel to people around me - 

if they are swimming so slowly they probably have no clue what they are doing either.
Here everyone jumped within 5 minutes, so there were no later age group waves with good swimmers catching up to show the way.

- Poor vision
I've done all my races with my lucky pair of goggles.

Too bad I've scratched them and they've aged quickly from pool use.  

All newer ones I train with just never fit so well (and aren't proven lucky :).  

Next time I should buy a larger batch of fitting goggles and keep spares sealed.

Overshooting to the right was OK for the changed beach exit.

Last year on the swim-only challenge I ended up left of the exit and close to eddies and back-currents next to shore.  The tip they gave this time was to stay 100 yards away from shore to avoid them. 

Choppiness:

I have lots to work on my technique for waves - my head should be moving not far behind my torso rotation.  I was reaching out too high with my neck to avoid gulping water from the choppy waves.

- Combined with too little BodyGlide on the neck - I had some major chaffing on my neck.

Great that it was the only injury I had at this event.

With many zig-zags from too far to the left against the current to too close to the Golden Gate Bridge, I covered a much longer swim distance than optimal.  The length of a coast line is a fractal and as Mandelbrot showed can be infinite

Currents weren't too strong.  With a different exit and different current speeds than last year's Alcatraz Challenge it clearly wasn't going to be a swim PR.

Swim rank: As usual 90% outswam me.  

Biking: Smile, give thanks and have fun

Passing is a lot more fun than being passed, and in the water you don't see it.  There were 470 people ahead but from here on I was the one passing :) I passed 150 people on this leg trying to catch up with anyone ahead.
- Next time should try aiming to leapfrog two people ahead.

Biking 90 degree turns after steep downhills is tricky, 
and you can't always count on a cop or volunteer warning!  
I had only one very near miss on the chase downhill.

The high school kids they had for support were a real treat.

They were at almost every corner:  and waving as you are their hero.

Do smile at them, and thank for their time, it's worth your extra breath: you get even more energized.  Smile, and have fun, and everything will feel easier.


Bike rank: top 30%.  

Running:

Running gear

+ Five fingers (Bikila) worked great for the run terrain.  I never felt a need for more protection on the off-road portions.  True bare foot running on this course would have been torturous.  I had tried naturally bare foot these trails on a training run - there were a few dirt sections with tiny rough stones that are the worst.  


Only for the beach portion real barefoot may have been more efficient.  The hardest ground (i.e. fastest) at the beach is the wet tide zone, yet with shoes on I didn't want to get them wet to avoid blisters.  

+ Calf guards worked really well for the run. They were worth the extra seconds of fumbling to put them on in T2 transition.  I may try racing with them on the bike next time as well.  

I only somewhat regret saving plenty of energy on the hills that I couldn't use further on the downhills.  The trails in the bluffs above the ocean were tricky at places - the leading runner went off course and bloodied his knees.   It was a cool morning so blood capacity used for thermal regulation was available - I could have used the extra heart rate to push myself much harder.  

Sand ladder special

The 400 slipper sand covered steps up were extra fun on the run.  The tip from Becky Lavelle to pull on the cables was spot on, (no surprise she won).   I'd disagree with other top athletes who suggested to just walk it were too tired to think.  I tried walking midway but it was more tiring than maintaining a slow run by pulling on the cables.  I realized I am more efficient running (i.e. falling forward).  As long as I had enough energy to peel off my legs off the ground, I could pull up with my otherwise unused upper body.  I passed a good number of people that never caught up in just these 2:51 minutes.

 Sand Ladder

Good hill technique and lots of squats may have helped my preparation.  Of course, some may have chosen to just walk it.

Sand ladder rank: top 10%

Run rank overall: top 28%. 

Nutrition and Hydration: Splash'n'Sip method

On a short event like this nutrition is not as critical as Ironman.

Given the cold foggy weather and little sun expected 
I didn't worry about  electrolyte loss due to sweating, or need to drink a lot.

I still prefer to be self-supported and have my own aerobar bottle + two water bottles on the bike, and a full fuel belt on the run.  I've had my share of GI issues in the past from race nutrition that my body refused to take.  
I was happy with the results of a new experiment with race drinks.

Just have a taste of  the Gatorade:  mostly splash around your mouth, and take a sip

Tasting the sweet shot coming down should fool your body to release more calories, and it also feels pretty good.  Yet there is no need to burden the GI system, and drink the Gatorade, 

just splash the cold sweetness around your mouth.

(On the other hand there were studies claiming there are sweet taste receptors in rats intestines as well, so an occasional sip may be OK.)

Somewhat of a waste to take a whole cup for a splash & sip.  

They really need 'tasting cup' servings refilled quickly to stay chilled.

Clothing

Naked is better than wet

There was a 1km run between the dumping the wetsuits at swim exit and the bike start.  I ran  that topless and I think that worked best.  My skin dried out quickly and feeling the wind in the cold morning felt good for a fast run to keep warm.  A wet jersey would take longer to dry out.  Sure, it might save time in T1 to have it on, but on cold mornings I'd rather not waste energy on trying to warm up water.

Giving to get

I enjoy racing with the TNT jersey as that's how I got into this.  Even though I am not on team, I only make personal donations to the Leukemia Lymphoma Society.  There is a lot of energy and support that wearing the purple jersey brings.  Yet you get equally much from encouraging someone else when you are passing them.  "Go Team! ", "You're amazing, ".  "You're awesome" the closer you get to the finish, and "yes it CAN BE DONE - you did it!"

 3:51:35 chip time

All Pictures

Follow Good Recovery Protocol

Even though I didn't have any major complaints during the event, 
I've learned my lessons.  Therefore I proceeded with most of my recovery protocol.

+ Cold water immersion immediately after the run - back in the bay.  
- There was no need for ice packs on my knees though it wouldn't have hurt.

+ A light massage with extra attention to ITB and glutes.

+ Hot water immersion and walking.  
+ Calf guards for the next few days.  

For the first time I had no injuries and forced downtime after a race.  

Great news as I planned to climb Mt Whitney several days later.

Beer at 10am

High metabolism from training and a day job with back to back meetings or long coding sessions require creative hydration and fuel solutions.  It's well known that good programmers' productivity is based on caffeine, calories, and beer.  Energy drinks can give you the first, but beer is hard to add.  Here is my ultimate recipe.

Invented at VMware circa 2009.  Made available to the public for tasting purposes only.

Ingredients:

coffee - French roast works well, darker or decaf if you don't need much caffeine;

soda - cane sugar soda (mango flavored is my favorite), or sugar free if you don't need carbs; the carbonation mix makes a delicious beer-like foam topping

Benefits:

Caffeine - improves attention and memory performance

Sugar -  warm glucose fueling your brain

Beer-likeness:

    - Indelible smirk on your face - creativity and confidence booster

    - Face of your manager - priceless!

I love it at 10am meetings with people who don't know my antics: 

"He is already drinking beer!  He's got to be a principal engineer."  or "Is he quitting?"

Great for meetings that may last too long or when you need creative solutions.  

Good for coding when you don't want to lose context.

Instructions: Pour two fingers of coffee in a tall glass.  Pour soda confidently from  high above the glass.  Stop when the foam is an inch away from the top.  Otherwise quickly slurp the overflowing foam.

Certainly doesn't taste like beer, but I've had many fooled I am having one.  It should be no warmer than British beer with proper ratio of hot coffee and cold soda.  Carbonation is used up to make the great tasting foam topping, no burping.  Cane Sugar instead of HFCS as in Mountain Dew is much better for you.  And you can customize for your needs of caffeine and calories.   No alcohol - better than Dutch courage.  

Yes, I actually drink this.  About a dozen curious ones have tried it when I make some in the kitchenette. Having no daring imitators in meetings has kept its cachet.

Cannibalism banned at Half-Ironman. Ironman still fair game.

If your calves are giving out midrace should you eat someone else's? Should you choose the lean calf of a well-trained healthy Ironman or a sedentary calf?

USA Triathlon federation announced new rules for short course triathlons disallowing using others' body parts and fluids for fuel and liquid replenishment. Long course Ironman events with fuel stations more than 10 miles apart may still allow this practice under directors' discretion. Stricter regulations demand that the heart rate of the consumed athlete has dropped to 0 for at least 5 minutes. Failure to abide by the new rules may result in 15 minute time penalty or disqualification.

Are the new USAT rules affecting your race strategy? When should you eat some calf to improve your race performance? We'll discuss such everyday questions in light of the new rules in subsequent posts.

Dolphin breathing and altitude sickness. Hiking Mauna Loa - Part 3 of 3

We'll discuss what we (and much less I) know about altitude sickness, some fun facts about dolphins, and some numerical data on a limited case study with my data.  I propose in this article methods for consciously controlling breath patterns to keep blood oxygen levels high and heart rate low, and training techniques.  If proven effective these might be useful to limit altitude sickness, and prevent the deadly HACE and HAPE that kill people every year.

Dolphins

The first half of my vacation was freediving with dolphins and a freediving class that helped shape the rest of this post.  If dolphins could hike up a mountain they wouldn't get altitude sickness (they are also smart enough not to go).  We are fortunate to have both automatic breathing we don't have to think about, and manual breathing that allows us to control our respiratory rate.  Unfortunately our automatic breathing is broken when we go up in the mountain and I believe is the main cause for altitude sickness.  It is great we can use a manual override, but that works only when we are not asleep.  

    Dancing with Dolphins Video

Each breath a dolphin makes is a conscious act.  Conversely, dolphins in captivity or in "The Cove" can commit suicide by not taking their next breath.
* Please, please don’t buy tickets to dolphin shows to end dolphin captivity.

Dolphins shut off a half of their brain to sleep, while the other half maintains their breathing.  They swim in circles with the outer eye looking for danger while the half associated with the inner eye is asleep.  This is the key ability that we unfortunately don't have.  I would be able to get much better sleep if I could teach my automatic breathing to quickly keep up.  

Altitude sickness: AMS, HACE, HAPE

Presently we do not fully understand how hypoxia causes altitude sickness.  What is certain though is that hypoventilation, and decreaseed breathing response to hypoxia are strongly correlated with it.

Partial pressure of oxygen gets exponentially lower with higher altitude.  Lower partial pressure makes gas exchange in tissue and alveolar capillaries more difficult.  Our short term adaptations to hypoxia (really reactions to high levels of CO_2) cause tissue vasodilation (expansion of capillaries in tissues), and in later stages pulmonary vasodilation (capillaries in alveoli).  Both of these improve oxygen delivered to tissues and replenishment in the lungs.  However, they come at a cost of swelling, and leaking fluids from the cell walls.

In the brain the expanded tissues putting pressure on the skull trigger even more swelling in a vicious cycle - HACE (high-altitude cerebral edema).  In the lungs the expanded capillaries for gas exchange leak more fluid and usable area is depleted even more rapidly - HAPE (high-altitude pulmonary edema).  

Both conditions can be fatal within hours.  About 1% of people ascending above 3000m get HACE, and ~1.5% get HAPE.  Milder versions of these are experienced as AMS - and affect more than 40%.  Symptoms of AMS include nausea, dizziness, vomiting, headache, lethargy, fatigue, stomach illness, rapid heart rate and poor sleep.

Hydration

Leakage in blood plasma increases blood viscosity, which requires the heart to work harder and blood pressure to rise.  Higher pressure further increases leakage.  Good hydration lowers viscosity and cuts the vicious cycle early.

Hemoglobin binding

Oxygen is carried bound to hemoglobin and dissolved in plasma. Just having highly oxygenated hemoglobin is not enough, we want it to quickly release oxygen in the tissues. Blood acidity H+, CO2 and temperature are correlated to higher oxygen release.  Hypothermia and alkaline blood (low CO2) make it harder to deliver oxygen to the tissues.  That's why high in the mountain it is critical to eat and drink to keep hypothermia at bay, and make sure to not hyperventilate if you are breathing to compensate!

Every year people die from altitude sickness

A very experienced at high altitudes climber died earlier this year on an attempt to summit Mt Shasta (4,322m).  They were forced to camp ~4000m in a snowstorm.  HACE was just too quick and too deadly, there was little his partner could do to save him.  My conjecture is that the snowstorm made all the difference - much lower barometric pressure has decreased the O_2 partial pressure. Furthermore they likely have been dehydrated if they didn't boil enough snow as they had to dig emergency shelter.

Our goals from the above research should be to maintain slightly higher blood acidity, lower blood pressure, and lower blood viscosity.  I believe we can control these with conscious diet, exercise pace, and breathing choices.

Diet choices

I think a diet high in carbohydrates should be recommended, and moving at a faster pace as long as hydration is sufficient. 

What you metabolize affects the Respiratory Quotient - the ratio of CO_2 produced over O_2 consumed.  What you burn depends on what you eat and the pace at which you are exercising. 

Carbohydrate metabolism produces 1 CO_2 for each O_2 molecule therefore R.Q. is 1.0, protein R.Q. is 0.81, and fat R.Q. is 0.7.  Since the respiratory rate is mostly a function of CO_2, eating mostly carbs will either 1) accelerate the course of AMS and acclimatize or die faster, or 2) increase the respiratory rate to provide sufficient oxygenation.

My theory is that the body is normally calibrated to expect ~0.8 R.Q. (calculated from 70% fat, 30% carb at rest) so we should expect 2).

Anyways, theory accidentally matched well with practice.  I forgot to buy nuts!  I was supposed to start this hike a day later and intended to buy fresh macadamias from the farms... 

I did have some fats in Cliff bars, the rest of my food was mostly carbs on the trail and lots of carb and protein at camp.

Acidity

Acidosis (low pH) limits red blood cell travel.  Alkalosis (high pH) makes red blood cells 'greedy' and lowers hemoglobin exchange.

Overall I think we should try to cause mild metabolic acidosis.  Protein metabolism create additional acidity from amino and organic acids.  I'd assume that effect would be short lived and blood acidity is quickly buffered,  but some protein is anyways good to have in the diet.   Drugs or maybe extra water/proteins can be used to limiting the kidneys ability to make the blood more alkaline.  

Hydration and electrolytes - I need 3-4 L a day, usually less with electrolytes.  Temperature impact - from scorching sun to subfreezing temperatures, both demand additional water.

For lower CO_2 I think you want higher flow rate through the kidneys, not having enough electrolytes will force your body dump extra fluids.  I'd also be worried that higher Na and water retention might increase fluid leakage.  For good or bad, I also forgot to pack my electrolytes - I normally have Endurolytes capsules, and water dissolved Nuun.  

Case study

Subject: me

This was the second time I was at 4000 m.  36 hours earlier I had been at 0 m.

Location: Mauna Loa Cabin

The cabin was at 4039m, where standard barometric pressure is 63 kPa (0.62 atm). This means that there is 62% of the oxygen available at sea level.  Latitude impact and actual barometric pressure aren't included in the above estimate.

Weather: temperature outside -5C(23F), weather fronts.

  The key factors to consider are O_2 partial pressure, and humidity.  I definitely wasn't excited to wait the impending snowstorm at the summit cabin.  It seemed wiser to get off the mountain before it hits.

Equipment: Pulse oximeter (Nonin GO2)

The one I have is easy to use, portable and cheap.  Yet it is not officially certified accurate above 4000m (where I usually care to use it for hiking), nor under 70% SpO2 (and I get below that for freediving breathholds).  We used this at the Stanford/UCSD Prevention of Altitude Illness with Non-steroidal anti-inflammatory Study (PAINS) at White Mountain.

Medications: Last time I was on Ibuprofen (administered double-blind, I didn't know if I am on placebo during PAINS), and now on Naproxen (non-blind, self-administered for ear-PAIN!).  Naproxen may have suppressed headaches.  NSAIDs impairment of kidney functions is considered beneficial in this case as that leaves more CO_2 in the blood and increases respiratory rate.

Symptoms: insomnia, short sleep cycles.  Nothing else!  This time I was feeling much better than last time at this altitude.

Signs: low SpO2, high heart rate

Physical condition:

Last time I was in much better aerobic condition as I had just peaked my Ironman training.  Now I had been training for freediving, and I was in better anaerobic condition.  The linked dolphin pictures and videos are from my up to minute long freedives and underwater swims with dolphins.  Being conditioned to exercise in hypoxic conditions was probably beneficial to feeling great at altitude.  

I can hold my breath for 6 minutes without blacking out (as I would frantically be writing down ridiculously low SpO2 values after clocking out).  I had good hypoxic tolerance but probably decreased automatic response to hypoxia (low O2).  Indeed I was most worried that I have a decreased automatic response to hypercapnia (high levels of CO2), e.g. later urge to breathe.  I was hoping Naproxen would counteract that by keeping CO2 levels high.

Data: middle of the night

Waking up: 70% SpO2

Resumed breathing: 80% SpO2

Deep breathing: 95% SpO2, HR 70bpm - likely hyperventilating.  Hyperventilated blood will not actually deliver oxygen from hemoglobin even though SpO2 is high.  Needed oral intake.

Tidal breathing: 90% SpO2, 62bpm - good target for resting breathing

'Dolphin' breathing: 86% SpO2, 56bpm - low heart rate was a good way to fall asleep.

  relaxed diaphragmic breathing, nasal intake, 2 second inhale, 4 second exhale

Data: at sunrise

Me 75% to 79% automatic, up to 90% conscious breathing, at 70bpm standing

Davie 80%, avg 115bpm very erratic heart rate

Further processing: these should be compared to calculator models of SaO2

Altitude sickness suggested prevention

Suggestion #1: 'Dolphin' Breathing when sleeping

If you are not sleeping well anyways, it is best to at least keep your tissues oxygenated and avoid HACE and HAPE.  Get a Pulse Oxymeter.  Find a good breathing rhythm and volume that allows you to keep high oxygenation, without hyperventilation and a low heart rate.  From the few methods I've tried while falling asleep looked like keeping a low heart rate with no hyperventilation was more important than very rich SpO2 but still higher than autonomic.

Definitely needs more research.  The key question is can the automatic system maintain the manual style after you fall asleep.

Suggestion #2: Breathe consciously when moving

Find a good rhythm and just like each step has to be conscious until you get in the 'zone' same should be each breath.  Breathe through your nose to keep moisture in.  Continuous breathing is easiest to maintain.

Suggestion #3: Breathing or hyperventilation when stopping

Don't forget to breathe when you stop!  In fact, after heavy exertion if I stop to eat or drink, I'd sometimes get a headache in the back of the head.  That is likely due to high CO2 - e.g. as heart rate stays high for a while.  The easiest way to reduce that is with controlled hyperventilation (upper chest) to remove extra CO2.

Training #1: Low oxygen tolerance tables

This is training you can safely do at home in your bedroom, by gradually increasing the time you can hold your breath to accustom the body to extremely low levels of oxygen.  

For freediving training this is alternated with high carbon dioxide CO_2 tolerance tables.  Learn more at a freediving class

To avoid any risk of reduced urge to breathe, if you are only interested in high altitudes, I'd stick only to O2 tables.

Altitude sickness prevention

My take is that the critical time to check for HACE and HAPE progression is in the morning.  Never leave someone behind early on.  HAPE gets worse with exercise, and victims will need support for safe descent.

Having a partner is not always of much help once HACE and HAPE hit.

It's always best to be self-sufficient and track early symptoms, prevent, and act conservatively.  

It's still better to have others as poor judgment due to HACE will prevent proper action (e.g. descent), and you can't exert yourself with HAPE.  Share your symptoms with your partners.  

Don't ascend with worsening AMS when others go up, while you should be descending.  

Don't treat insomnia - not waking up to breathe will only make things worse!

I think having a good sleep in the early days in the mountain may be dangerous.  

Overall tiredness may make one less capable of manual ventilations.

* Avoid alcohol

* Avoid Diphenhedramine, e.g. for ear problems, or poison ivy

"Climb high, sleep low" should make acclimatization faster. In this case the summit was not that much higher than camp.  

Ascend slowly.  Above 3000m the recommended daily gain is 300m (1000ft) for safe acclimatization.  This is the advice most ignore and pay for.  The Mauna Loa route required three times faster than prudent ascent.  It is probably better to stay two nights at the first cabin.  Although for maximum acclimatization to living on Mauna Loa one would need 48 days.

Acetazolamide helps improve acclimatization.

I haven't taken it, but I carry in case of need for treatment to help descent, or in case of delay at altitude (e.g. snowstorm, or injury) with worsening AMS.

I haven't had a severe AMS before, and while side effects are mild I'd rather not use drugs for helping ascent.   If you do know you get AMS it definitely sounds like a good choice for a preventative drug.   

Freediving and Mountaineering

After further research, I overall think that freediving conditioning and high altitude climbing are very complementary activities with great cross-training potential.  Awareness to one's breathing, and

knowledge of effective breathing patterns to increase oxygenation and lower heart rate, I believe are critical for one's performance and enjoyment whether deep in the ocean, or high up in the mountains.  I think we need to take a lesson from the dolphin's playbook and take over our breathing.  All medical studies have been too interested in prevention via drugs and analysis of automatic breathing patterns.  I'd be very interested in what, if any, breathing techniques have been studied.

Further research

High carb diet was found protective in one study but not in others

Endurance training may reduce AMS, but others find high VO_2 max uncorrelated to AMS.

* Peter Bärtsch, Erik R. Swenson, André Paul, Bernhard Jülg, Elke Hohenhaus. High Altitude Medicine & Biology. December 2002, 3(4): 361-376. doi:10.1089/15270290260512846.

http://www.liebertonline.com/doi/abs/10.1089/15270290260512846

Study showing that without any difference in hypoxic and hypercapnic responses at sea level some hikers do get AMS while others do not, which implies no correlation. I'd still suggest not overtraining hypercapnic (high CO_2) tolerance training.

* West, et al.  http://jap.physiology.org/content/61/1/280.extract

Research of periodic breathing at an Everest expedition high camp (8050m) showed cycles of (20s breathing and 8s not-breathing).  Subjects weren't able to distinguish breathing patterns in sleep vs nonsleep!